“There is a piece of land in the Venetian Lagoon, between Venice and St. Erasmus, that emerges only when there is low tide. This piece of land is called Bàcan and it has become the symbol of Venetian cheerful days, spent among the light of the sun and the rithm of the music.”
In Osteria in Bàcan, a restaurant in Prenzlauer Berg that takes its name from this famous piece of land, you can taste the traditional Venetian cuisine and breath a joyful Brazilian atmosphere. Mattia Dionori, the owner, is a very resourceful man. He runned a restaurant in Melborune, in Australia, but then he decided together with his parents to move to Berlin. Little more than a year ago, he opened his place in the German capital city, where he work with his Venetian father and his Brazilian mother.
In the kitchen works Mattia’s mother, an energic Brazilian woman that has a friendly smile and a melodious voice. «I arrived in Italy in 1985. I was only 18 and I didn’t know Italian. I spent my first months in my mother-in-law’s house. Anna – my mother-in-law – used to cook all the day and, thanks to her, I have learned many Italian recipes.» The woman is talking about the Venetian traditional recipes, like spaghetti alla busara, bigoli in salsa and sarde in saor. Mattia proposes to his clients not only his grandmother’s recipes, but also some specialties suggested from his great-uncle, who used to work as the executive chef in the well-known “Locanda Cipriani” in Venice. «Our desserts have a secret ingredient that let them be the tastiest in the world.»
«In order to guarantee the authenticity of the Venetian tastes, we usually buy our products – baccalà (salted codfish), that is a typical ingredient of our cuisine, cold cuts, cheeses and wines – from Italian suppliers. We prefer to spend more money and have high quality products, rather than spend less money and not satisfy our clients. By using the best ingredients, we always serve our clients a good and traditional course. That is why our menu is not so big: I think that if you try to propose too many courses, you will lose quality. We prefer have less courses, but serve them in the best way: I mean with the best and fresh ingredients. In our fixed menu we have: pizza, six starters and three fish-based courses, like salted codfish and grilled squides. We also serve vegan specialties.»
«When we had a restaurant in Italy, we used to propose our clients both the Italian and Brazilian cuisines, but now we offer only Italian specialties. Every week we propose different “dish of the day”, in order to not annoy our regular customers. For example, we have two different kinds of carbonara: the traditional one and an original version of it.»
Winsstr. 53, 10405, Berlin – Prenzlauer Berg
Open Monday to Sunday, from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Translation edited by: Federica Presta